Archive for the ‘FAQ’ Category

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Should you put aluminum foil in the oven?

May 6, 2010

Don't shoot yourself in the foot trying to keep a clean oven.

Our expert service guy, Gene, passed on a cautionary tale to me yesterday after he ordered a new, $90 oven floor for a customer.

A well-meaning woman lined the bottom of her oven with aluminum foil, to catch all the food that bakes into the oven.

Instead of having to scrape it all off, she could just pull out the aluminum foil and voila, no more mess.

Except she ended up with a bigger mess when the aluminum foil melted onto the oven.

For years, people had lined their ovens with tin foil to speed clean up. But these days, we don’t use tin foil. We use aluminum foil. And aluminum has a much lower heat tolerance, apparently.

And aluminum foil-maker Reynolds warns against it.

From the Reynolds FAQ webpage:

To avoid possible heat damage to your oven, we do not recommend using aluminum foil to line the bottom of your oven. Rather, we recommend that you place a sheet of heavy duty aluminum foil on the oven rack beneath the pie or casserole you are baking. The foil should be only a few inches larger than the baking pan to allow for proper heat circulation. The foil will catch any drips before they reach the oven bottom.

There you go. Smart play on Reynolds part, right? Because you know people will end up getting rid of the sheet of foil and using a new one next time…

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Posted in Cleaning, FAQ, Uncategorized | 5 Comments »

Why you should care about CFMs

February 15, 2010

Minnesota homes, like others in colder climates, are built air-tight. It’s not really something we think about until we remodel our kitchens.

Oh yes. That beautiful, pro-style range or cooktop. All that power. All those BTUs.

But all those BTUs require a certain amount of another acronym.

CFMs.

Quick! Get a vent!

More heat being produced = more heat needing to be exhausted. But our state code actually says ventilation hoods can’t exceed 300 Cubic Feet per Minute before needing “makeup air.”

Why? It’s kind of confusing, honestly, but Faber Rangehoods’ blog had a good explanation on this several months back:

A situation of negative pressure could also occur when too much air is pulled out of the home and it is not replaced by air from the outside. In today’s construction the homes are becoming more and more air tight and when too much air is pulled out of a home, you need to sometimes “make up” for that lost air by pumping outside air into the home

Before you get really excited about the solution of makeup air, understand that depending on your home, it will cost $2,000 to $10,000.

Passive makeup air, which is less expensive, could work for the 300-600 CFM range. Passive makeup air is basically holes in your house that only bring air in or out depending on air pressure differences.

The safest bet in Minnesota? Unless you want to invest a boat load of money, stick to a 300 CFM hood. This limits you to about 3,000 BTUs of cooking power (using our 100 CFMs per 1,000 BTUs suggestion), but erring on the safe side also protects the investment you make in your kitchen.

Don't be "this guy."

For instance, think about what all that extra smoke, grease and moisture will do to your cabinets. Plus, your house could end up smelling like a Burger King. Is that really what you wanted?

If you’re still not satisfied with that answer, you might be able to cheat a bit by oversizing the vent (i.e. 3 inches of overhang on both sides). This will increase the capture area of your smoke and grease.

Sticking to 300 CFMs gives you fewer options, for sure, but they’re nothing to snub. Previously mentioned Faber makes a 250 CFM insert hood liner. Broan makes an affordable 300 CFM hood.

But if you’re looking to top your pro-style vent with something higher-end, check out Vent-A-Hood. They’re quiet and they come with full, 5-year warranties. Here’s the Vent-A-Hood 30-inch 300 CFM hood.

Photo credit:

Posted in FAQ, Kitchen Design, cooking | Leave a Comment »

Cash for Appliances – FAQs about Minnesota’s rebate program

February 1, 2010

Need a new fridge? How about one that comes with $200?

I’ve been eating, sleeping and breathing the upcoming appliance stimulus program, which I like to call Cash for Appliances and the State of Minnesota likes to call the “Trade & Save Appliance Program.”

The program’s official site launched today with information about the program. At 8 a.m. March 1, the site will launch a rebate reservation module.

To keep yourself busy until then, consider my frequently asked questions. Add your own questions in the comments and I’ll be sure to answer them.

If you rely on e-mail reminders to keep from missing important events, you’ll love our Appliance Stimulus E-mail Alerts. We’ll make sure you get the best shot at getting a rebate. E-mail stimulus@warnersstellian.com with the subject SUBSCRIBE.

What appliances qualify for a rebate?

How many rebates will be available?

What is Energy Star?

Aren’t all new appliances energy-efficient?

Do I have to spend a certain amount to get a rebate?

How will I receive the rebate?

Are there income limits?

How much money can I get?

When does the program start?

How do I sign up?

How long does the program run?

What if rebate funds run out for the appliance category I want to buy?

Can I get a rebate on a previous appliance purchase?

Is there a limit of rebates per household?

Can I get these rebates in conjunction with rebates from my utility/municipality?

Can renters/rental property owners receive a rebate?

Do I have to turn in my old appliance to be eligible for a rebate?

Why can’t I get a rebate for buying a new dryer or stove?

Where can I buy an appliance to get my rebate?

Do you haul away/recycle my old appliances?

How long will it take to get my rebate?

Why are there two rebate amounts listed under refrigerators and freezers?

Will retailers have the forms I need?

Who administers the rebates?


What appliances qualify for a rebate?

Energy Star-labeled refrigerators, freezers, dishwashers and clothes washers will be eligible for a rebate.

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How many rebates will be available?

Approximately 25,450 rebates will be available:

  • 6,035 clothes washers ($200 rebate)
  • 6,005 dishwashers ($150 rebate)
  • 1,999 freezers ($100 rebate with purchase and “proof of demanufacturing”; $50 for purchase only)
  • 11,411 refrigerators ($200 rebate with purchase and “proof of demanufacturing”; $100 for purchase only)

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What is Energy Star?

Energy Star is the government labeling system that helps consumers identify the most energy-efficient products, including appliances. Learn more at www.energystar.gov.

Your sales associate will be trained on the requirements of the program and can help you select an Energy Star appliance that qualifies for a rebate and fits your specific needs.

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Aren’t all new appliances energy-efficient?

To some degree, yes. The federal government holds all new appliances to certain standards. Energy Star labels appliances that go a specific percentage above and beyond that standard, depending on appliance category.

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Do I have to spend a certain amount to get a rebate?

No.

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How will I receive the rebate?

After going through the rebate reservation process and the rebate submission process, you will receive a check in the mail in approximately 30 days.

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Are there income limits?

No.

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How much money can I get?

Households are limited to one rebate, which max out at $200 for a clothes washer or refrigerator with proof that the old refrigerator has been properly recycled. Customers can receive a $150 rebate for a dishwasher or $100 for a freezer with proof of recycling.

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When does the program start?

A rebate reservation website will launch at 8 a.m. CST, March 1, 2010, at which time you can also call 1-877-230-9119.

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How do I sign up?

Beginning 8 a.m. March 1, 2010, you can reserve a rebate on the program’s Web site (www.mnappliancerebate.com) or call a program-specific phone number (1-877-230-9119).

You will need to know what category of appliance (i.e. refrigerator) you will be purchasing.

If funds are available in the category you’ve selected, you will print submission forms (including proof of recycling forms if you’re purchasing a refrigerator or freezer and would like to get the full rebate amount), which carry your unique submission code.

You will have 30 days to purchase, recycle and submit the application forms by mail. Thirty days will be determined by postmark date of forms mailed.

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How long does the program run?

The rebate program will run until March 31, 2010, or until funds are exhausted.

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What if rebate funds run out for the appliance category I want to buy?

A limited amount of people will be placed on a waiting list, by appliance category (i.e. clothes washers).

People placed on the waiting list will need to make a purchase and submit rebate forms as well and could receive a rebate, should another person with a rebate reservation not submit their forms within 30 days or submit forms with an egregious error. Rebates will be awarded to those on the waiting list who’s forms have been received on first-come, first-served system.

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Can I get a rebate on a previous appliance purchase?

No, rebates won’t apply to purchases made previous to March 1.

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Is there a limit of rebates per household?

Yes. Rebates are limited to one per household.

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Can I get these rebates in conjunction with rebates from my utility/municipality?

Yes. Rebates can be received in addition to any other incentives being offered. See the Database of State Incentives for Renewables and Efficiency for additional rebates offered in Minnesota.

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Can renters/rental property owners receive a rebate?

No. Only residential homeowners will qualify for a rebate. Commercial use won’t qualify for the program. See the Database of State Incentives for Renewables and Efficiency for additional rebates offered for multihousing properties and commercial applications in Minnesota.

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Do I have to turn in my old appliance to be eligible for a rebate?

You will be asked to self-certify the recycling of your old washer or dishwasher according to state laws and regulations. Customers who properly recycle refrigerators and freezers can double their rebates from $100 and $50, respectively, to $200 and $100.

The program was designed to take older, inefficient appliances off the energy grid.

Plus, old refrigerators cost A LOT of money to run, so it’s probably not worth it to your energy bill and your conscience.

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Why can’t I get a rebate for buying a new dryer or stove?

Currently, Energy Star only rates refrigerators, freezers, dishwashers, clothes washers, dehumidifiers, air purifiers and water coolers. Appliance categories such as dryers don’t vary significantly enough from one to another in energy use to be differentiated.

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Where can I buy an appliance to get my rebate?

You must purchase from a Minnesota retailer to qualify for a rebate.

We think you should buy from Warners’ Stellian.

The rebate program is designed to stimulate the local industry. Purchasing from a locally owned, independent retailer such as Warners’ Stellian ensures the most of your dollar stays within the state:

When you spend $1 at a local independent, an average of 68 cents is recirculated into the local economy. In contrast, when you spend $1 at a national chain, only about 43 cents stays at home. If Twin Cities consumers shift even 10% of their spending from chains to locals for one day, the Twin Cities economy gains some $2 million.

We are also an official program partner organization with an expert knowledge of the program. We’ll make the process painless for you.

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Do you haul away/recycle my old appliances?

Yes. We always recycle appliances one-for-one with minimum purchase ($499), and we’ll make the delivery, installation and recycling (or “demanufacturing”) process painless for you. You can trust our professional crews in your own home.

Make sure to keep your proof of demanufacturing form for our delivery crew to sign at time of delivery.

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How long will it take to get my rebate?

You will receive a check by mail within approximately 30 days after your rebate submission forms are received.

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Why are two rebate amounts listed under refrigerators and freezers?

The “proof of demanufacturing” is required to earn 100% of the rebate on either of these two appliances and can be signed by any party picking up an appliance who certifies that it will be taken off the grid and turned over to an appropriate recycler ensuring the appliance will be fully decommissioned and the CFCs recycled.

This is to incent consumers to turn over their old working refrigerator or freezer instead of keeping it or reselling it.

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Will retailers have the forms I need?

No. Retailers can’t print or fill out any forms for you because your rebate reservation carries a unique submission code.

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Who is administering these rebates?

The program, part of the federal American Recovery and Reinvestment Act, is run on the state level by the Office of Energy Security.

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Customers who properly recycle refrigerators and freezers can double their rebates from $100 and $50, respectively, to $200 and $100.

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Posted in Cash for Appliances, Energy Efficiency, FAQ | 4 Comments »

Garbage disposal HOW TO – Sharpen the blades

January 20, 2010

Knives aren't the only kitchen tool worth sharpening.

Just like your kitchen knives, your garbage disposal blades can dull over time from use.

(Especially if you’re like me and play a home version of “Will It Blend?” on your Insinkerator.)

To sharpen the blades, combine table salt and coarse cleanser (we like Bar Keeper’s Friend), shove the mixture down past the baffle (yes, that rubber ruffle-y thing has a name!) and run the disposal without any water. When that’s finished, run water with the disposal like normal and rinse away the residue.

The coarse mixture should sharpen your blades. Another tip: Always run cold, not warm, water when running your disposal. Cold water hardens greasy substances, which makes them easier to grind, and keeps grease from sticking to the drain lines.

Check out my other appliance maintenance-related blog posts.

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Posted in FAQ, HOW TO | 1 Comment »

Refrigerator seal & fridge maintenance

January 13, 2010

Some people spend as much money on a kitchen as they do a car, yet expect to do no maintenance.

Would you be surprised if your truck engine overheated if you never changed the oil or refilled the coolant? Most also expect to rotate and replace tires and wiper blades.

You might not have spent 13 grand-something on a fridge, but I’m sure you plunked down a good amount. Here are some maintenance tips to help get your return on that investment. See my previous post,  “Ice maker troubleshooting.”

Moisten your gasket

Gasket, seal, "rubber thing" -- whatever you call it, keep it moistened. (Image courtesy Charles & Hudson)

A small amount of condensation on the fridge or freezer is normal, especially during humid weather and summer vacation, if you have kids who don’t know how to keep the refrigerator doors shut.

If you see more condensation than normal, check the seal (or gasket as we appliance nerds call it) for any obstructions and clear them. If there aren’t any, try moistening the gasket with Vaseline. Seriously, it works. If you don’t have any petroleum jelly, I’ve used Neosporin in a pinch (What won’t that stuff do, honestly?).

After applying a thin layer of Vaseline, organize your fridge. It doesn’t have anything to do with the seal, per se, but it will help you find what you need faster, meaning the door won’t be open as long. If Warners’ Stellian installed your fridge, we leveled it to tilt slightly back to encourage the doors to swing shut.

If someone else installed your fridge, consider leveling it in a similar way.

To raise the front of the cabinet, use the front roller leveling screws. To lower the back of the cabinet, use the rear roller leveling screws, if available, on your model.

Clean your coils

New refrigerators have self-cleaning condensers. But if you have an old fridge, you might still have coils that need to be cleaned once or twice a year. Some fancy vacuum cleaners have attachments to suit this purpose. But otherwise, you’ll have to get a coil brush from an appliance parts store.

(If you find yourself driving to an appliance parts store to buy a coil brush, make a detour and buy a new fridge instead because yours is pretty darn old. The energy grid will thank you.)

To clean the coils, remove the base grille and use the brush or vacuum attachment to clean it, the open areas behind the grille, and the front surface area of the condenser.

If you have pets or hairy, shedding family members, take care that the area around the refrigerator stays clear to ensure proper heat exhaust. Otherwise, that thing will be running all the time.

Change the water filter

If you have a water dispenser, you likely have a water filter. Replace it every six months or take direction from your indicator light, if you have one. Or, if odor and odd taste don’t cramp your style, stretch the life of it. But seriously, beyond water quality, an old water filter can cause sediment to build up and cause problems.

There are probably seven different types of water filters. Yours is either is the top back corner of the interior, down in the kick plate, or along the top interior of the fridge. ALWAYS bring your filter into the store when you’re replacing it because we don’t necessarily know the type a filter goes with a model number we looked up in your order from two years ago. We can guess, but it’s still a guess.

After replacing the filter, flush the air from the water system (see how to purge air from the water system animation – though 4 gallons seems like overkill) to prevent dripping from the dispenser.

Defrost your freezer?

Your freezer is probably “frost-free,” meaning it defrosts itself. You may have purchased an all-freezer unit that is manual defrost for storing foods long-term, but that’s another blog post (or e-mail me).

Just take care to clean your fridge and freezer every month.

Your turn: What did I miss?

Share your tips in the comments.

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Posted in Cleaning, FAQ, HOW TO | 29 Comments »

Why do front-load washers take so long?

December 23, 2009

Many customers seem confused when we explain that front-load washing machines need an hour minimum for a normal wash cycle.

Luckily, for times when I can't wait an hour and a half for a clean outfit (sports uniforms, anyone?), I have the 18-minute wash, 18-minute dry feature from Electrolux (though my laundry room looks nothing like this). In a word: lifesaver.

But front-load laundry machines profess great water and energy savings. How does a longer cycle reconcile with such efficiency?

First, front-load washers don’t fill deeply with water, only to dump it all out a short while later. Rather, they pump in a minimal amount of water (some models use sensors to determine the size of the load).

Water continuously filters in and out throughout the cycle, meaning the water stays clean the entire time. Top-load washers fill with water until the clothes float, and then the clothes just sit in that water for the entire cycle.

Also, heating the water often takes longer in a front-loader. A sanitation wash cycle takes about two hours. But you can be assured the hotter temperature eliminates all the cold and flu germs and dust mites congregating in your clothing and linens.

The good news is laundry still takes the same amount of time because dry times have been cut in half. We used to wait for the hour-long drying cycle to finish long after the washer was done. But now, because front-load washers extract so much water during the spin cycle, the average dryer cycle lasts only about 30 minutes.

Or for me, the skinny jeans (which I refuse to put in the dryer because they may get a bit too skinny) I hang on a drying rack easily dry by morning.

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Posted in Appliance Design, FAQ | 3 Comments »

Cleaning oven glass

December 9, 2009

Noticed some streaks and stains on the inner oven glass that weren’t there before?

(fig. 1)

Hold up! Step back from your Jump To Conclusions mat — it’s not a bad seal.

Several vents (highlighted in fig. 1) open directly into the inner door to vent the hot air away from the glass. And because of their proximity to the stove top and its mess, people often spray cleaner near the vents that sneaks inside the door and drips down, causing streaks and stains.

What to do?

Our smart and helpful customer service rep Amy cautions you against pulling the door apart yourself.

Officially, if it bothers you enough, pay a service company to clean it — otherwise you’ll void the warranty, she said. Unfortunately, this aesthetic nuisance falls outside of warranty coverage because the customer did it herself.

Anatomy of an oven door

But if your range is older than 10 years — and in some cases, five years — warranty is no longer a concern.

So, unofficially, you can check out this HOW TOs on espares.com and find more on fixya.com — at your own risk.

Don’t get all “Red Green” inspired and duct tape the vents, like one customer informed Amy he’d being doing. That hot air needs to go somewhere.

A better way to prevent stains between the glass is to not spray near the vents. Better yet, spray cleaners directly onto the rag, rather than the range.

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Posted in FAQ, customer service | 2 Comments »

What is convection?

December 2, 2009

con⋅vec⋅tion in⋅de⋅tect⋅ion [kuhn-vek-shuhn in-di-tek-shuhn]

–noun

1. Ignorance of a smart cooking method; leads to sluggish cook times, uneven results, under-utilization of oven capacity, culinary malaise.

Still today, many suffer from convection indetection. It’s a tragedy. People own convection ovens without even realizing it. Or worse, they simply don’t understand how to use convection.

But now that it’s holiday cookie baking season, you need to know you can bake three trays of cookies without rotating them.

Convection cures hard-on-the-outside, raw-on-the-inside syndrome.

Convection, used for years in commercial bakeries and kitchens, allows faster and more even baking by incorporating airflow into the oven.

Sometimes convection is just a fan. True convection, sometimes called European convection, includes an electric element behind the fan, which allows for more even heat distribution to each rack. The even heat distribution means no shuffling or turning trays when baking multiple items at once.

As the air passes over it, the element also burns off odor and flavor before it flows back through the oven cavity. Not so important when baking three trays of gingersnaps, but so crucial when cooking distinct multiple dishes simultaneously.

A rule of thumb: ALWAYS reduce cooking temperature by 25 degrees when using convection.

And practice. Don’t debut your convection baking for dinner with the in-laws or worse, the holiday. We’ve gotten plenty disappointed calls following burnt turkeys resulting from Thanksgiving convection experiments.

Convection can reduce cooking time for foods usually baking for longer than 20 minutes. For food that’s usually done in less than 20 minutes, it won’t be done faster, but it will cook more evenly.

To be safe, check for doneness a bit before the minimum cooking time, but try to use the oven light instead of opening the oven door to minimize temperature fluctuations.

NEVER use convection on delicate items like souffles and cheesecakes. ALWAYS invite me over for a taste.

Learn recipes specifically designed for convection ovens. MyRecipes.com, which features recipes from personal favorites Cooking Light, Southern Living and Real Simple — among others — has a slew of convection oven recipes online for free.

Posted in Appliance Design, FAQ, cooking | Leave a Comment »

Dishwasher troubleshooting: Dishes not clean

November 23, 2009

Thanksgiving means two things: lots of food and lots of dirty dishes. And more dirt requires more soap, right?

WRONG.

Despite what you might think, too much soap can actually prevent your dishes from getting clean — especially on the top rack.

You should only use about half the amount of detergent recommended on the package. And if you have a water softener, you need only 1-2 teaspoons of powder — even less if you use liquid.

I think these people may have used too much detergent.

Too much soap can cause over-sudsing. Our customer service representative Maghan explained to me that the dishwasher tries to drain as much of the soap suds and food residue as it can. But when too much soap is used and it produces  so many suds, the dishwasher can’t drain it all in the time allowed.

So instead of draining, the soap bubbles pop inside, redepositing tiny food particles back onto the dishes, which show up most on glassware and silverware.

How do you know if you’re over-sudsing? Run a cycle without any soap. If suds are left at the bottom of the tub, you’re over-sudsing.

To remedy, we suggest a “vinegar cycle”:

  • Empty any dishes and shut soap door, without adding any detergent
  • Run dishwasher until it gets to the wash cycle
  • Open the door and check if the dispenser flap has opened
    • If it hasn’t, run for another minute or so until the flap opens
    • If the flap has opened, add the 1 cup vinegar and run through the full cycle.

You might have to repeat the process two or three times to ensure you’ve eliminated the build up of soap. Maghan also suggests trying a dishwasher cleaner like Glisten or Dishwasher Magic.

And I’ve said it again but I will continue to harp on about using rinse aid. It’s not just for looks, people! Maghan reminds us dishwashers today come designed to use rinse aid to help dry, as they lack a built-in fan.

So remember: gorge on turkey, just go easy on the soap, OK?

Photo credit:

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Posted in Appliance Design, FAQ, HOW TO, customer service | 4 Comments »

What HEPA is and why you should care about it

November 4, 2009

OK, before I talk about HEPA, I have to confess that us Warners LOVE our Miele vacuums. Most of us, and a number of our sales associates, are believers — actively seeking converts, so please excuse my enthusiasm.

mielevac

Don't you hate when your vacuum gets stuck on an area rug? Sorry, can't relate.

I never understood the whole $700-for-a-vacuum thing until I used my cousin’s Miele to vacuum her entire first floor without waking her twin babies. That thing is so quiet, you would think it’s broken if it wasn’t so darn powerful. Pennies, paperclips, short animal hair — just once over and it disappeared.

When I told my sister about this, she agreed but said it was really the HEPA filter that made the Miele great. And I nodded along, but admittedly, I didn’t haven’t a clue what HEPA meant.

So I asked our Miele rep on the phone the other day, “What is HEPA and why does my sister care about it so much?”

His response was pretty helpful (and humorous).

“First understand that I could put a HEPA filter on your shoulder and call you a HEPA person and it doesn’t mean anything,” he said. I had to laugh, but as I listened on, it made more sense.  Miele vacuums are the only truly HEPA certified vacuums on the market.

HEPA, or high efficiency particulate arrest, was invented by the Army Corps of Engineers to combat chemical toxins. The U.S. HEPA standard requires 99.75% of all particles 0.3 microns in diameter be filtered. That’s teeny tiny — about 1/200th of a strand of hair.

“Well, how many of these things are actually in my house?” I asked.

The average home contains about 250,000 particles per square foot (1 million in an industrial warehouse setting like mine). And when we breathe, “gross stuff” (i.e. pet dander, pollen and even dust mite fecal matter) enters our blood stream through our lungs.

Does this matter to you? Maybe. If you have allergies or respiratory health problems, it definitely should. There’s no question using a HEPA filter to trap particles improves your breathing. And if you live in a newer construction home, HEPA becomes important because the quality of the insulation and windows mean that “fresh air” doesn’t really get in and current air simply recycles itself.

And if you’re already using a “HEPA” vacuum, you might want to double-check it.

“Some vacuum cleaners spit out particles through their exhaust system instead of trapping them inside the vacuum,” he said. “Just about every brand has a HEPA vacuum. But those units aren’t necessarily making use of the HEPA. It has to be able to filter all those particles to 99.7%.”

HEPA filters are tested to 10 cubic feet of airflow per minute, he said. Even low-quality vacuums can move about 60 cubic feet per minute. So what happens when you put a HEPA designed for 10 cubic feet per minute on a vacuum that moves 60 cubic feet of air per minute? The air is going to go around the filter and basically recirculate the debris.

“There are many vacuums created with leaks to help the air escape,” he said. “It’s like putting your thumb on a hose.” And that was it. The thought of dust mites and their “gross stuff” shooting out of a vacuum was enough to make me really, REALLY care about HEPA.

Miele vacuum cleaners generate over 100 cubic feet of airflow per minute and the HEPA filter is tested on the vacuum to ensure it’s truly sealed and can contain the debris. For more info, read our vacuum cleaner buying guide.

These vacuums are certainly an investment — they last upwards of 20 years — or a really, really generous gift (we ship for free!).  An all-surface vacuum with True HEPA filtration,  such as the S7 series uprights,  start at $649. Vacuum cleaners for smooth surfaces and low-pile carpeting start at about $300, after adding a HEPA filter.

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Posted in Appliance Design, FAQ | 2 Comments »

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