Jon, a self-proclaimed “water nerd,” has been in the industry for five years. When he’s not helping Warners’ Stellian or conducting product training, Jon visits customers’ home to “evaluate the symptoms, diagnose and treat” (get it?) their water.

Want Jon to diagnose your water?

During Water Test Wednesdays (see event calendar for dates and locations), bring in a water sample and Jon will test it. If there’s a problem, he’ll tell you how to treat it. (He can figure out how to fix a lot of problems, he assured me.)

If you already have a water softener, but you’re not sure if it’s working, draw one sample from an outside tap (because it’s untreated) and one from the bathroom cold (because it’s treated), to give him a before and after picture of how much your softener is actually doing.

The first Water Test Wednesday is tonight at our St. Paul/Falcon Heights/Roseville store from 5 to 8.

1. What are the benefits of a water softener?

A water softener removes harsh minerals commonly found in hard water. You’ll have softer, mineral-free water that is much gentler on everything that uses water:

• Less crusty, scale buildup on sinks and faucets

• Brighter, cleaner clothes

• Reduced soap scum on tubs, showers and shower doors

• Softer laundry, linens and towels

• Cleaner, smoother skin and hair

• Clearer pipes with less corrosive elements and scale buildup

Plus, your appliances work more efficiently and last longer. And they’ll need less detergent, saving you money and reducing the environmental impact.

2. What is hard water?

Hard water contains dissolved minerals such as calcium, magnesium, iron and manganese. According to the Water Quality Association, water containing more than 1 GPG (grain per gallon) of these dissolved minerals is considered hard water. Relative levels of hardness have been established:

• Soft Water – less than 1 GPG

• Slightly hard – 1 to 3.5 GPG

• Moderately hard – 3.5 to 7 GPG

• Hard – 7 to 10.5 GPG

• Very Hard – 10.5 and higher GPG

3. What is the average water hardness in Minnesota?

Minnesota’s average is 15-25 GPG (grains per gallon) however some parts of the Twin Cities are as high as 35 GPG. Unlike mass-produced national retailers and franchised water softeners, Water Doctors amasses an extensive database of municipal water supplies and engineers the Water Doctors softeners and filters to match the exact water chemistry of the customer’s water analysis.

4. What is the average water hardness in the United States?

Five to nine grains per gallon. Being this is the “average,” the national brand softeners are designed to this level of hardness. Minnesota and Wisconsin’s is 2-4 times harder and requires different softening and filtering media. Water Doctors engineered systems will use up to 70 percent less salt.

5. Why is the water in Minnesota so hard?

The earth beneath Minnesota and Wisconsin is heavily saturated with limestone, which is where hardness (calcium) comes from. Limestone is made up of calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate.

6. What type of salt should I use in my water softener?

Water Doctors recommends using extra-coarse solar salt, which is commonly found in the blue bag and is cleaner than the pellets. Pellet salt uses a bonding agent to hold it in its pellet shape. When the water in the brine tank dissolves the salt for use in the softener, the pellets can essentially glue themselves together causing bridging. Once this happens the salt no longer can dissolve to soften the water. Water Doctors offers convenient home delivery of salt for all brands of softeners.

7. Can salt from softening installations enter drinking water?
Salt can’t enter drinking water through softening installations. The only purpose of salt in a water softener is to regenerate the resin beads that take the hardness out of water.

8. Why does soft water make my skin feel slippery, slimy, or I can’t get the soap off?

Those who grew up with hard water are used to the feeling, which is the result of soap scum clogging your pores. (Yes, the same soap scum that is on the shower doors and walls.) The clogged pores block natural skin oils. But showering or washing in soft water cleans your pores out and allows your natural skin oils to come out. Remember what happens when water mixes with oil? It gets kind of slippery. That is the feeling that you are experiencing. For the first time your pores are no longer filled with soap scum and your natural skin oils are free to come out.

9. Does a softener brine tank need cleaning?

Usually it is not necessary to clean out a brine tank. However, if your water happens to contain some sand or sediment it can collect in the brine tank. If this is the case you may want to clean the tank out once a year.

10.Is there such a thing as no salt softening?

No. The only way to actually soften water is by using a traditional salt-based ion exchange softener. Salt-free systems attempt to reduce scale buildup, but they don’t remove hardness from the water nor its negative effects.

11. Is electricity a big part of water softeners?

No. A water softener costs approximately $3 to $5 per year in electricity. A water softener is plugged into an outlet for time-keeping purposes only, because it recharges at 2 a.m.

12. Does a softener purify the water?

No, but there are products that will. Reverse Osmosis drinking water systems and Whole House Ultra Filtration units purify the water. A water softener simply removes hardness that clogs pipes and appliances.

A Reverse Osmosis system is designed for drinking water and can be piped to multiple locations. Whole House Ultra Filtration is installed after the water softener to treat all of the water in your home, not just drinking water.

13. What are the differences among water softener brands?

Quality of construction is a major difference among water softener brands. The other is the type of resin (softening media) used. Water Doctors uses stainless steel valves and custom builds every unit by selecting the proper resin media based on your specific water chemistry. There are approximately 40 different types of resin to choose from. Durable valves give the water softener the durability it needs to soften the unusually harsh water conditions found in this area for up to 25 years. The proper resin selected provides maximum efficiency and perfectly soft water.

It's all your fault. Seriously.

I’ve been noticing many more glasses coming out of the dishwasher with a white residue on them.

I blame this trend on my roommates’ overzealous dish-rinsing habits rather than my overzealous wine glass-using habits, of course.

But, what does rinsing my plate have to do with my wine glass, Julie?

Everything, Loyal Appliance Blog Reader.

Many of today’s dishwasher detergents contain phosphates, which need food residue to break down. So, if there’s no food residue or grease, the phosphates don’t break down. Instead, they somehow end up on your glassware (disclosure: I’m no chemist, if you haven’t noticed yet.)

As if you need another reason to stop pre-rinsing/washing your dishes.

So, washing my dishes actually causes them to become dirty?

That’s what we call irony, LABR. You’re catching on.

If you find yourself with a rack of filmy glassware, save the labor — and the water (rinsing dishes often uses more water than a dishwasher cycle) — and run a warm vinegar rinse.

Put 2 cups white vinegar in a glass or dishwasher-safe measuring cup on the bottom rack. Then run the dishwasher through a complete washing cycle using an air-dry or an energy-saving dry option. Do not use detergent. The vinegar will mix with the wash water.

Running a vinegar cycle every few months is a good idea, per se.

Authors who wrote this blog post also wrote: “Dishwasher troubleshooting: Dishes not drying?”

Flickr photo credit: olibac

Your refrigerator likely comes set at the factory-recommended temperature, probably a “mid-setting,” but what is that?

If you set the temperature too low, your food will freeze. Set it too high, however, and your food will spoil quicker due to increased bacterial growth.

The recommended temperature for your refrigerator ranges from 35 degrees to 38 degrees.

I keep my refrigerator at 37 degrees and try to keep it stocked well with food, because — believe it or not — a fully stocked fridge holds its temperature better than one with a couple condiment bottles in the door.

But the best test for your refrigerator’s temperature is a beverage. If you don’t like the temperature of your beverage, adjust the fridge. If you think your refrigerator is too cold, increase the temperature by 1 degree and allow 24 hours for the compartment to adjust. Obviously, do the opposite if you think your refrigerator is too warm.

To ensure proper temperatures, air has to be able to flow between the refrigerator and freezer sections.

As shown in the super sweet illustration, cool air from the refrigerator enters through the bottom of the freezer section and moves upward. Most of the air then flows through the freezer section vents and recirculates under the freezer floor. The rest of the air enters the refrigerator section through the top vent and flows down the back of the refrigerator compartment.

Make sure the air vents aren’t blocked by some errant food thing. Otherwise, it might block the flow of air to the refrigerator, which in turn causes temperature and moisture problems and melty ice cream, etc.

Also (word to the wise), last time my refrigerator was too warm — and I had cranked it up to the coldest setting — I (my dad) finally popped off my kick-plate to find a veritable lint blanket.

Lesson: if your refrigerator can’t exhaust properly, it can’t cool properly. So, vacuum the condenser every three months!

Think of the children, won't you? Replace your refrigerator's water filter.

If your refrigerator dispenses water, chances are it uses a filter.

Most manufacturers recommend replacing the filter every six months to nine months, but certainly your fridge won’t blow up if you don’t. You might just drink some stanky water or notice a “decreased flow.” Or your ice maker won’t function as well.

Or you could just replace your filter when your status indicator light (or “change filter” light, as many customers call it) tells you to. Usually, this light lives on the temperature control panel. If you don’t have a change filter light, replace the filter based on the time frame recommendations outlined in the Use & Care manual you tucked away for safekeeping because you’re a responsible appliance owner.

Mostly, just use good sense, as the life of the filter depends on your usage and the quality of the water. If you notice a change in your water, replace your filter more frequently.

Many of you don’t know this, but I used to be somewhat of a water filter whisperer back in my Warners’ Stellian receptionist heyday. Customers never remember what the heck brand their fridge is when they come in for a replacement filter — not that I judged them. Picking up a replacement water filter falls under the “lost bet to spouse” level of fun errands. (On a related note, we offer free shipping on accessories totaling more than $50.)

I could generally qualify someone based on sketchy info, but not all receptionists possess such amazing skills, so do your homework. And even if you know your brand of refrigerator, it’s important to look at the filter itself as some brands make several types. Here’s how you replace your refrigerator water filter:

For the filters like the one picture above left, rotate the cap counterclockwise until its vertical pull the cap and filter cartridge out through the base grille. Push the new filter cartridge into the base grille until it stops with the cap in the vertical position. Rotate the cartridge cap clockwise to a horizontal position.

For the filters like those on the above right, press the eject button and pull the cap straight out. Don’t twist the cap or it will detach from the filter, and you’ll have to put the cap back on and try again the way I told you to in the first place. Got it? OK. Push the new filter into the opening in the base grille. The button will pop out when the filter is in place, but give the cap a tug to make sure.

This kind of filter, found in the upper right corner inside the refrigerator, is pretty easy to replace. Just turn the filter counterclockwise until it come out, drain it into the sink and trash it. Next, remove the seal from the new filter, insert the filter into the filter head and turn it clockwise until it stops. Easy.

This filter to the right often sits in the back right of the fridge.

To remove, turn the water filter 90 degrees counterclockwise (aka your left) until the filter releases. Take all the packaging crap off the new one, push it up into the housing and turn 90 degrees to the right. (Here’s where the directions include “close the door,” but I figure you can make that decision on your own.)

Once you replace the filter, make sure you flush air from the water system, otherwise you’re going to have a drippy dispenser in your kitchen driving you absolutely nuts. Watch this fun video or follow these directions:

Hold a container to the water dispenser lever for 5 seconds, and then release it for 5 seconds. Repeat until water comes out. Continue holding and releasing the dispenser lever (5 seconds on, 5 seconds off) until a total of 4 gallons has been dispensed. You might get a little spurting as the air clears out, so beware.

Can’t get to the store for a new filter? You can still remove and use the water dispenser in bypass mode. You just won’t have filtered water.

But you can’t argue with success.

Based on reads, here are the most popular blog posts categorized as frequently asked questions or HOW TOs or that sort of thing.

1. Refrigerator seal & fridge maintenance

2. Ice maker troubleshooting

3. Dishwasher troubleshooting: Dishes not drying

4. 10 sneaky ways you’re wasting money in your kitchen

5. Should you put aluminum foil in the oven?

6. Why do front-load washers take so long?

7. Dishwasher troubleshooting: Dishes not cleaning

8. Cleaning your washer – 3 tips on how to clean a smelly washer

9. HOW TO:  clean and season a griddle

10. HOW TO: clean stainless steel appliances

(There was that one week when I was 11 when we didn’t have a fridge, so all I ate was Munchems and got violently ill, but I digress…)

I mean, we wore hand-me-downs and “new” meant from the thrift store, but God help us if we didn’t have a 1 horsepower Insinkerator disposer humming in the drain.

Why throw corn cobs and chicken bones in the trash, when they can be scraped right off into the disposer?

Fast forward my let-them-eat-cake perception of food waste disposal to Saturday:

After making lunch, I shove a broccoli stalk, fennel fronds and stems, half a lemon and a salmon skin down the disposer at the same time, turn on the water and flip the switch.

After about 30 seconds of fighting through — and clearing — the fibrous, fatty material, my disposer began its equivalent of whimpering and water began pooling up in the little sink.

Oops.

Apparently, I forgot where I was — my kitchen. Perhaps I should’ve taken my own advice on how to sharpen disposer blades. Suddenly, worries about plumbers and service calls and bills started coalescing into a decision to just hope that it cleared up on its own.

Too afraid to run the dishwasher, we ended up washing the dishes from the day’s barbecue in the laundry tub, which subsequently plugged up.

Oops.

Luckily, I know people who know things about appliances who also find the stupid people that break them (me) to be endearing. So I called him on Sunday.

Store manager friend: Does it still grind?

Me: Yes.

SMF: It’s just clogged. Buy some Liquid Plumr.

I threw half a bottle down the disposer drain and the other half down the laundry tub drain, waited 15 minutes and flushed hot water down the disposer while running it.

It made some gurgling/gobbling noises and then cleared itself up, wouldn’t you know it, for only $4. (Note: I’m now a HUGE fan of Liquid Plumr).

Lesson learned. Unless I install the Cadillac disposer, fibrous foods should be composted or cut it up into manageable bites and loaded into the disposer gradually.

Here’s a handy “will it grind?”-type chart I found from KitchenAid:

NOTE: If you are on a septic system, grinding large amounts of these types of waste may require more frequent cleaning of the septic tank system.

I’m curious as to what other people successfully and unsuccessfully grind in their disposers. Or do you think disposers are a problem in general? (I’ve never lived without one…)

Image: maxabout.com

If you’ve replaced your refrigerator within the last several years, your shiny new model might be making its presence known in noisier way.

Why?

For one, foam insulation — often used to make these appliances more energy-efficient — lacks the sound-baffling capabilities of fiberglass insulation incorporated into previous energy hogs.

Here’s some other “normal” sounds to expect, along with their abnormal counterparts:

Evaporator coil

A boiling, surging or gurgling sound as the compressor starts and stops. Also, a pop as the evaporator expands and contracts after defrosting.

Evaporator fan

The sound of air being forced through the unit is normal, but a continuous ticking or even intermittent squealing is abnormal.

Defrost heater

Sizzling or hissing sound from water dropping onto the heater during defrost cycle

Compressor

Newer fridges’ compressors are much more efficient and run much faster, giving off a high-pitched hum, whine or pulse. But watch out for clicking during start up (especially if the lights dim), banging or knocking during start or stop, a ping or snap followed by the compressor stopping.

Cold control and defrost timer

A snapping or ticking sound as the refrigerator turns on and off

Plastic liner

Cracking or popping as the temperatures change

Drain pan

Running water during or after the defrost cycle

Water valve

Buzzing, clicking or running water as the icemaker fills or water is dispensed

Icemaker

Cracking of ice and cubes dropping into the bin

Condenser fan

Air being forced over the condenser is normal, but squealing from the motor is abnormal.

Condenser

You should hear a surging or gurgling sound from the flow of refrigerant when the compressor runs, but an improperly placed drain pan could cause rattling.

If the normal sounds bother you, consider a piece of rubber-backed carpet for underneath the fridge. You could even put sound absorbing materials inside the cabinet if the refrigerator sits in an enclosure.

Photo credit - las_intially

If your oven is setting off the smoke alarm every time you make a pizza, it might be time to give it a good cleaning.

Self-clean ovens have a setting that allows it reach very high temperatures and burn food mess off into ashes. Do NOT use oven cleaners on self-clean ranges, and make sure to take the racks out before you start a cleaning cycle to ensure they continue to glide well.

If you don’t have a setting for cleaning your oven, you’ll have to manually clean it of course. (I can hear my grandpa, who started Warners’ Stellian, making some sort of joke related to manual-clean ovens actually being self-clean: “Of course it is…you clean it yourself!”)

To manually clean your oven:

1. Make sure you’ve allowed the cavity to properly cool down. We don’t need any heroes on our hands.

2. Remove the oven racks. These can be cleaned with steel wool, water and dish soap. To get off trickier messes, put racks in a garbage bag in a cup of ammonia overnight in the backyard and rinse with the garden hose in the morning.

3. First try scubbing the oven cavity with soap, water and a soft cloth or sponge. Hopefully, this will do the trick.

4. If more rigorous cleaning is needed, our customer service rep, Amy, suggests the following natural oven-cleaning remedies:

• Pour ¼ cup ammonia and 2 cups of warm water in a bowl in your oven, and close it up tight. If you’re at home during this, make sure you open a window so no one gets sick. You can clean out the dirty oven with a scrubby sponge after a few hours or overnight.
• Fill a spray bottle with 1 tablespoon Borax (which works great as a cheap laundry detergent booster), 1 1/2 tablespoons vegetable oil dishwashing soap and a quart of warm water. Spray the oven walls, scrub it clean after an hour and rinse thoroughly.
• A paste of baking soda and vinegar left on the oven cavity surface could work well, but be careful to cover the holes of the gas line if you have a gas range really REALLY well, because if they get clogged, that’s a bad thing. If you go this route, you should be able to scrape off food mess with a spatula. Wipe out the oven thoroughly afterwards.

Anyone ever try these tricks? I’m going to have to pretty soon on the manual-clean oven in my new house. I’ll report back.

Energy Star, a joint program by the Environmental Protection Agency and the U.S. Department of Energy, cautions people to scrape, not rinse. Pre-rinsing dishes can waste up to 20 gallons of water.

Energy Star dishwashers and today’s detergents are designed to do the cleaning so you don’t have to pre-rinse.

And if your dirty dishes are going to sit overnight, use your dishwasher’s rinse feature. It uses a fraction of the water needed to hand rinse.

Speaking of a using a fraction of the water, a dishwasher built before 1994 wastes about 8 gallons of water per cycle compared to owning a new Energy Star-qualified model. So if you replace one of these old dishwashers with an Energy Star dishwasher, you’re saving enough water each week to wash two loads of laundry in an Energy Star qualified clothes washer.

So be lazy: scrape, don’t rinse!

Burnt popcorn smell lingers in microwaves so badly, an office I worked in banned it from the break room. It’s notorious, but completely removable.

Is your microwave haunted by the ghost of Orville Redenbacher?

If your microwave harbors its own dirty Pop Secrets, try this cleaning tip we got from Frigidaire (hat tip to Sarah from our Customer Service Department):

Microwave Odor Removal

You’ll need:

• 1 cup water
• juice of 1 lemon
• grated lemon peel
• several whole cloves

Combine together in a 2-cup glass measuring cup and boil for several minutes in the microwave on full power. Allow hot mixture to sit in the microwave until cool. Wipe interior with a soft cloth.

Though this tip wasn’t specifically written for burnt popcorn, I can’t think of much else that smells up a microwave. Help me out in the comments below!