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Christmas-Holiday gift ideas

December 15, 2010

Because most people don’t shop till now anyway, I’m not even going to call this last-minute. But here’s a roundup of unique gift ideas for the people in your life worth gifting to!

For the wine lover, a 16-bottle countertop wine cooler:

For your wino friends (or wannabe winos), this compact wine cooler ($150) stores and displays 16 bottles behind a sleek, mirrored finish door. Adjust temperatures for various wines with the soft touch controls with digital display.

For the tailgater, a mini LP grill:

How awesome would this Weber Q gas grill ($150) be for all those early morning grill outs and picnics? It’s also a very discreet option for those whose apartments or condos don’t allow grills (speaking from experience). This mini grill crams 889 sq. inches of cooking space into a 27″x16″ footprint of only 60 pounds. And you can purchase the optional Weber Q Grill rolling cart for $45.

For the new homeowner or pet owner, a HEPA vacuum cleaner:

For friends and family who’ve recently gained a furry friend, the Dyson Animal DC25 ($550) is probably the ultimate gift. This root cyclone vacuum is designed for homes with pets and is certified asthma and allergy friendly with a washable lifetime HEPA filter.

Miele vacuums, rated to last 20 years, are a great gift for someone just starting out in her home. Plus, they come in cute colors, like this Miele Polaris vacuum in light blue ($399). I’ve blogged about them before, because I love how quiet they are, how well they clean, and how long they last.

Plus, all of our vacuums ship for free nationwide. If you hurry, you could still get it by Christmas!

For the grilling enthusiast, the ultimate smoker:

There aren’t many grills that produce the a fanatic with their own name, like the Big Green Egg does. “Eggheads” rave that this ceramic smoker is the ultimate for meats, fish, vegetables and any other creation grillers cook up.

The Large Big Green Egg (shown, $750) — which is the most popular size — can cook:

  • 20-pound turkey
  • 12 burgers
  • 6 chickens vertically
  • 8 steaks
  • 7 racks of ribs vertically

For the cigar aficionado, a sophisticated stainless steel humidor:



The Liebherr humidor XS-200 is definitely one of those big, spendy holiday gifts, at $2,599. But it’s completely distinctive, with European-style stainless steel and glass displaying cigars housed with premium preservation elements (humidity, temperature and hygienic conditions).

>>See Liebherr cigar humidor blows no smoke

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Posted in Appliance Design, Best, grilling, Innovative Features, Product Roundup, vacuums, Wine storage | Comments Off

Kitchen appliance colors 2010

November 5, 2010

You won’t see color appliances outside white and black in many kitchens, but gee, isn’t it fun to look at pictures to get kitchen color ideas?

I’d pledge my firstborn Le Creuset to someone who could actually produce a photo with this combination of kitchen appliance colors, but for some Friday fun, I assembled a roundup of fall-inspired colored appliances.

Viking Colored Microwave

This little (Viking Pumpkin Colored Microwave) guy's so festive, I'd like to carve him up and put it on my doorstep.

No, you can’t panel a microwave — and yes, lots of people ask — but Viking Appliances does let you choose among a bunch of colors:

Viking appliance colors

Red Wine never looked so good. (Actually, red wine looks good to me on a regular basis, but it's still a very attractive range.)

Viking iconic pro-style ranges aren’t the only choice for cooking in colors.

Bertazzoni, an Italian cooking appliance-maker, uses the same paint as car-maker Ferrari to paint its appliances.

(What is it with appliances mixing with automotive design?).

In fact, one of its ranges is even called Ferrari Red.

This Bertazzoni colored range in Wine just seems so cold-weather inspired.

>> See other Bertazzoni range colors

Perhaps Plum is more of a winter color...but I couldn't resist including a big purple refrigerator.

Back to Viking: Doesn’t your dream kitchen include a built-in colored refrigerator…in plum?

Those not in the high-end appliance market shouldn’t feel left out.

There’s always seasonal dishwasher magnets.

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Posted in Appliance Design, Design, Friday Links Roundup, Kitchen Design, Product Roundup | Comments Off

Simmer down, now! Pay attention to burners’ BTU minimums, not just maximums

October 12, 2010

When Warners’ Stellian entered in the Builders Association of the Twin Cities Chili Cook-Off, I enthusiastically volunteered to make our entry.

We were encouraged to make more than 2 gallons, with the logic being more chili means more tasters means more votes for Warners’ Stellian. So, I made six batches. Observe:

 

Two-thirds of the chili produced, getting ready to "simmer"

 

When it came time for the massive amounts of chili to “simmer” for an hour, I lowered the controls on my (15-year-old) gas range to the flame’s lowest point before disappearing and tended to other responsibilities.

When I returned to dutifully “stir occasionally” 55 minutes later, all three pots of my chili were not simmering, but boiling. Of course chili isn’t as delicate as say, chocolate or Hollandaise sauce, but I don’t like the idea of keeping my chili at high heat for nearly an hour.

Apparently, flames on most ranges nowadays can only go so low.

Astronomically high BTU burners are trendy right now, but several brands also offer cooktops and ranges with extra-low settings for safer simmering.

 

Wolf gas cooktop

 

Wolf burners go down to 300 BTUs and absolutely will NOT scorch chocolate.

When I went to Wolf product training, a tiny Hershey’s square sat in a saucepan atop a Wolf simmer burner all afternoon, perfectly happy and melted.

 

Dacor gas cooktop

 

Dacor has burners that can go as low as 650 BTUs, but also includes a simmer plate with some models.

A simmer plate is an accessory that protects your delicate foods from the direct heat of the burner, holding it at the safest low temperature possible.

 

Thermador gas range

 

Thermador ExtraLow Simmer burners can simmer as low as 100°F at 375 BTUs.

If you’re wondering, I didn’t place in the top three, though I did win the prize for Most Colorful Chili (you are what you eat, right?). Of course, I blame my lack of victory on my non-simmering range.

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Posted in Appliance Design, cooking, Ranges | 2 Comments »

Refrigerators, freezers will use 25% less energy, DOE says

September 29, 2010

Energy Secretary Steven "I'm lookin' out for" Chu announced he will bite the straw of the one of the biggest power-suckers in the home in two years.

The U.S. Department of Energy announced Tuesday a 20-25 percent increase in the minimum energy efficiency standards of new refrigerators and freezers by 2014.

The news release goes on to talk about billions of dollars saved for consumers over 30 years, which kind of makes my eyes glaze over. What the heck does that mean for me?

Look at it this way: today’s fridges already best their 1970s counterparts’ energy use by one-third, and back then annual operation cost  an average of $259 versus an average of $54 per year for today’s standard-efficiency unit. An Energy Star unit currently costs an average of $43 to operate annually.

Energy Star refrigerators already use 20 percent less energy than the federal standard, so basically, new fridges in 2014 will become at least as efficient as today’s Energy Star fridges, meaning annual operating costs will drop about $11. And if Energy Star standards increase alongside minimum standards in response (using a conservative 20 percent efficiency increase), average operating costs of an Energy Star refrigerator will look more like $34 per year. That’s of course assuming energy costs remain constant, but I just wanted to make savings concrete rather than throw this at you (from the release):

According to the Department’s analysis, the proposed standards could save nearly 4.5 quads (quadrillion BTUs) over 30 years, equivalent to three times the amount of energy used in refrigerators and freezers in American homes in one year.  The standard, as proposed, would also eliminate the need for up to 4.2 gigawatts of generating capacity by 2043, equivalent to 8-9 coal-fired power plants nationwide.   The savings would reduce cumulative carbon dioxide emissions by 305 million metric tons between 2014 and 2043.

(Come again?)

Also, standards didn’t necessarily account for how many consumers actually used their refrigerators. From a spokesman for an energy-efficiency advocacy group:

“Even though refrigerators have become much more energy efficient, they still account for about 10 percent of household electricity use,” observed Alliance to Save Energy Vice President for Programs Jeffrey Harris. “With the new standards, consumers will not only save energy, they’ll also have a better picture of total energy use, because the ratings will include automatic ice makers.”

Over the next year, the DOE also plans to evaluate standards for central air conditioners, room air conditioners, furnaces, clothes washers, clothes dryers and dishwashers.

My fridge is 15 years old, so I expect huge improvements when I replace it. How old is your refrigerator? Will new improved energy efficiency motivate you to replace your unit faster, because of faster payback? More importantly, did reading this article make you feel guilty about using your “but it still runs” fridge from the 70s to cool a couple of beers in your basement?

Related: Warners’ Stellian’s commitment to sustainability

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Posted in Appliance Design, Budget-wise, Energy Efficiency, Refrigerator, Sustainability | 5 Comments »

Refrigerator temperature: What temperature should a refrigerator be set at?

August 6, 2010

Flickr photo credit: olibac

Your refrigerator likely comes set at the factory-recommended temperature, probably a “mid-setting,” but what is that?

If you set the temperature too low, your food will freeze. Set it too high, however, and your food will spoil quicker due to increased bacterial growth.

The recommended temperature for your refrigerator ranges from 35 degrees to 38 degrees.

I keep my refrigerator at 37 degrees and try to keep it stocked well with food, because — believe it or not — a fully stocked fridge holds its temperature better than one with a couple condiment bottles in the door.

But the best test for your refrigerator’s temperature is a beverage. If you don’t like the temperature of your beverage, adjust the fridge. If you think your refrigerator is too cold, increase the temperature by 1 degree and allow 24 hours for the compartment to adjust. Obviously, do the opposite if you think your refrigerator is too warm.

To ensure proper temperatures, air has to be able to flow between the refrigerator and freezer sections.

As shown in the super sweet illustration, cool air from the refrigerator enters through the bottom of the freezer section and moves upward. Most of the air then flows through the freezer section vents and recirculates under the freezer floor. The rest of the air enters the refrigerator section through the top vent and flows down the back of the refrigerator compartment.

Make sure the air vents aren’t blocked by some errant food thing. Otherwise, it might block the flow of air to the refrigerator, which in turn causes temperature and moisture problems and melty ice cream, etc.

Also (word to the wise), last time my refrigerator was too warm — and I had cranked it up to the coldest setting — I (my dad) finally popped off my kick-plate to find a veritable lint blanket.

Lesson: if your refrigerator can’t exhaust properly, it can’t cool properly. So, vacuum the condenser every three months!

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Posted in Appliance Design, FAQ, Refrigerator | 6 Comments »

HOW TO: change a refrigerator water filter

August 2, 2010

Think of the children, won't you? Replace your refrigerator's water filter.

If your refrigerator dispenses water, chances are it uses a filter.

Most manufacturers recommend replacing the filter every six months to nine months, but certainly your fridge won’t blow up if you don’t. You might just drink some stanky water or notice a “decreased flow.” Or your ice maker won’t function as well.

Or you could just replace your filter when your status indicator light (or “change filter” light, as many customers call it) tells you to. Usually, this light lives on the temperature control panel. If you don’t have a change filter light, replace the filter based on the time frame recommendations outlined in the Use & Care manual you tucked away for safekeeping because you’re a responsible appliance owner.

Mostly, just use good sense, as the life of the filter depends on your usage and the quality of the water. If you notice a change in your water, replace your filter more frequently.

Many of you don’t know this, but I used to be somewhat of a water filter whisperer back in my Warners’ Stellian receptionist heyday. Customers never remember what the heck brand their fridge is when they come in for a replacement filter — not that I judged them. Picking up a replacement water filter falls under the “lost bet to spouse” level of fun errands. (On a related note, we offer free shipping on accessories totaling more than $50.)

I could generally qualify someone based on sketchy info, but not all receptionists possess such amazing skills, so do your homework. And even if you know your brand of refrigerator, it’s important to look at the filter itself as some brands make several types. Here’s how you replace your refrigerator water filter:

For the filters like the one picture above left, rotate the cap counterclockwise until its vertical pull the cap and filter cartridge out through the base grille. Push the new filter cartridge into the base grille until it stops with the cap in the vertical position. Rotate the cartridge cap clockwise to a horizontal position.

For the filters like those on the above right, press the eject button and pull the cap straight out. Don’t twist the cap or it will detach from the filter, and you’ll have to put the cap back on and try again the way I told you to in the first place. Got it? OK. Push the new filter into the opening in the base grille. The button will pop out when the filter is in place, but give the cap a tug to make sure.

This kind of filter, found in the upper right corner inside the refrigerator, is pretty easy to replace. Just turn the filter counterclockwise until it come out, drain it into the sink and trash it. Next, remove the seal from the new filter, insert the filter into the filter head and turn it clockwise until it stops. Easy.

This filter to the right often sits in the back right of the fridge.

To remove, turn the water filter 90 degrees counterclockwise (aka your left) until the filter releases. Take all the packaging crap off the new one, push it up into the housing and turn 90 degrees to the right. (Here’s where the directions include “close the door,” but I figure you can make that decision on your own.)

Once you replace the filter, make sure you flush air from the water system, otherwise you’re going to have a drippy dispenser in your kitchen driving you absolutely nuts. Watch this fun video or follow these directions:

Hold a container to the water dispenser lever for 5 seconds, and then release it for 5 seconds. Repeat until water comes out. Continue holding and releasing the dispenser lever (5 seconds on, 5 seconds off) until a total of 4 gallons has been dispensed. You might get a little spurting as the air clears out, so beware.

Can’t get to the store for a new filter? You can still remove and use the water dispenser in bypass mode. You just won’t have filtered water.

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Posted in Appliance Design, FAQ, HOW TO, Refrigerator | 1 Comment »

Top-load washing machines replacing front load washing machines?

July 28, 2010

The buzz in laundry appliance circles (trust me, they exist) these days for washers is all front load, front load, front load.

Or is it?

Whirlpool Cabrio front-load washer and dryer in black

The Whirlpool appliance crew came in last week to show our sales staff its new line and argued that many of today’s customers want top load laundry again. But these customers aren’t replacing a top-loading washer with a top-loading washer; They’re replacing front-loading washers with top-loading washers.

True, some of the earliest front-loading washing machines came fraught with mold issues and vibration and noise problems. Those early kinks have pretty much, ahem, come out in the wash. But apparently, not everyone’s convinced.

Without an agitator, Whirlpool's new top-load washer has tons of capacity -- up to 5.2 cu. ft.

Plus, Whirlpool’s high-efficiency top-load washer offers many of the same features front-loaders became popular for:

  • extra-large capacity
  • high spin speeds
  • less water and detergent used

Also available are features such as steam cleaning and drying, allergen-eliminating cycles and precision detergent/bleach/fabric softener dispense.

All Whirlpool’s new washers are rated are at the peak of energy efficiency ratings — Tier 3 — by the Consortium for Energy Efficiency (see “Energy Star not sole guide for energy-efficiency”). The Cabrios sense the size of the load and only use as little as 14 gallons per wash, as much as 31 gallons fewer than a traditional top-load washing machine.

I’m a huge front loader snob, but I have to admit that the features are pretty darn similar and who wouldn’t rather reach down than bend down. I think they’re definitely a good machine for the customer who wants quality but not another front loading washing machine.

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Posted in Appliance Design, Cleaning, laundry, Washer | 4 Comments »

True Refrigerator Beverage Center: Ultimate beverage refrigerator

July 19, 2010

Have you ever pulled a can of cold beer or soda out of a beverage center only to discover it’s not really that cold?

True Beverage Center TBC-24

No, your beer refrigerator isn’t broken. It’s probably just not designed to get that cold.

In fact, most beverage center temperature controls only go as low as 40-45 degrees. (For perspective, consider that ideally, food stores between 35 degrees and 38 degrees.)

So a beverage refrigerator able to cool its cabinet to 33 degrees could store some really, truly cold beer.

The TBC-24 can be used in built-in or freestanding applications and measures 24 inches wide.

That’s one reason I like True’s Beverage Center (TBC-24). Not only can they get super cold, but they can also reach that temperature more quickly and maintain it better. True is already well-known for its quality commercial refrigeration, so you know it’s a seriously heavy-duty product.

Constructed with commercial-grade stainless steel inside and out, the beverage center uses True’s exclusive balanced refrigeration system.

Basically, what convection does for the oven, balanced refrigeration does for refrigeration — in reverse. A fan moves the cool air through the refrigerator continually, eliminating hot and cold pockets to ensure one consistent temperature throughout the unit.

And True’s fan motor and blade force more air across a greater surface area (on its coated evaporator coil), making its cooling capacity efficient and consistent.

What does this mean to you? The beer on the top shelf is just as cold as the beer on the bottom shelf. Beverages cool down much more quickly and then maintain that perfect temperature until you’re ready to enjoy them. I’ll drink to that!

Plus, it’s UL-rated for outdoor use, so I’ll drink to that outdoors…

Still not convinced? Other specs from the manufacturer…:

  • Available in stainless steel with glass door and overlay models
  • Two commercial-grade, adjustable wire shelves. 1 glide-out wine shelf and a floor cradle holds 13 wine bottles
  • Temperature is maintained at +1/-1 degree of the set point throughout the cabinet
  • Commercial-grade, 300 series stainless steel does not absorb food odors like other plastic liners, providing a sophisticated look while also prolonging the life of the cabinet
  • Anti-racking technology on glide-out shelves minimizes vibrations
  • Highest quality, white LED lights illuminate the interior without UV rays, helping to maintain a consistent interior temperature
  • Stay-open door hinge allows for easy loading and unloading
  • UV-tinted, double-paned, low-e glass door minimizes UV exposure
  • Exclusive blue LCD performance display shows the real-time temperature, not just the set point
  • Adjustable and removable shelving system can be modified to meet your needs
  • 2” thick door with commercial-grade insulation for more consistent and efficient cooling
  • Factory set at 35°F, temperature controls range from 33° to 65°F for complete flexibility
  • Standard built-in lock provides added security (stainless steel only)

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Posted in Appliance Design, Refrigerator | 6 Comments »

Will it grind? My disposer dilemma

July 12, 2010

Growing up as appliance retail royalty, I never wanted for anything appliance-related.

(There was that one week when I was 11 when we didn’t have a fridge, so all I ate was Munchems and got violently ill, but I digress…)

I mean, we wore hand-me-downs and “new” meant from the thrift store, but God help us if we didn’t have a 1 horsepower Insinkerator disposer humming in the drain.

Why throw corn cobs and chicken bones in the trash, when they can be scraped right off into the disposer?

Fast forward my let-them-eat-cake perception of food waste disposal to Saturday:

After making lunch, I shove a broccoli stalk, fennel fronds and stems, half a lemon and a salmon skin down the disposer at the same time, turn on the water and flip the switch.

After about 30 seconds of fighting through — and clearing — the fibrous, fatty material, my disposer began its equivalent of whimpering and water began pooling up in the little sink.

Oops.

Apparently, I forgot where I was — my kitchen. Perhaps I should’ve taken my own advice on how to sharpen disposer blades. Suddenly, worries about plumbers and service calls and bills started coalescing into a decision to just hope that it cleared up on its own.

Too afraid to run the dishwasher, we ended up washing the dishes from the day’s barbecue in the laundry tub, which subsequently plugged up.

Oops.

Luckily, I know people who know things about appliances who also find the stupid people that break them (me) to be endearing. So I called him on Sunday.

Store manager friend: Does it still grind?

Me: Yes.

SMF: It’s just clogged. Buy some Liquid Plumr.

I threw half a bottle down the disposer drain and the other half down the laundry tub drain, waited 15 minutes and flushed hot water down the disposer while running it.

It made some gurgling/gobbling noises and then cleared itself up, wouldn’t you know it, for only $4. (Note: I’m now a HUGE fan of Liquid Plumr).

Lesson learned. Unless I install the Cadillac disposer, fibrous foods should be composted or cut it up into manageable bites and loaded into the disposer gradually.

Here’s a handy “will it grind?”-type chart I found from KitchenAid:

Everyday food scraps Yes
Vegetable peels
(Potato skins, melon and fruit rinds)		 Avoid grinding large amounts at one time. Instead, gradually feed vegetable peels in while running the water and the disposer.
Fibrous materials
(Celery, corn husks, artichokes)		 No; but some higher horsepower models can handle limited amounts of these food types.
Hard Materials – See NOTE below.
(Small bones, fruit pits, egg and lobster shells, crab and shrimp shells)		 Avoid grinding large amounts at one time. Instead, gradually feed hard materials in while running the water and the disposer

NOTE: If you are on a septic system, grinding large amounts of these types of waste may require more frequent cleaning of the septic tank system.

I’m curious as to what other people successfully and unsuccessfully grind in their disposers. Or do you think disposers are a problem in general? (I’ve never lived without one…)

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Posted in Appliance Design, Cleaning, Disposer, FAQ | Comments Off

Loud refrigerator? We hear ya

July 7, 2010

Image: maxabout.com

If you’ve replaced your refrigerator within the last several years, your shiny new model might be making its presence known in noisier way.

Why?

For one, foam insulation — often used to make these appliances more energy-efficient — lacks the sound-baffling capabilities of fiberglass insulation incorporated into previous energy hogs.

Here’s some other “normal” sounds to expect, along with their abnormal counterparts:

Evaporator coil

A boiling, surging or gurgling sound as the compressor starts and stops. Also, a pop as the evaporator expands and contracts after defrosting.

Evaporator fan

The sound of air being forced through the unit is normal, but a continuous ticking or even intermittent squealing is abnormal.

Defrost heater

Sizzling or hissing sound from water dropping onto the heater during defrost cycle

Compressor

Newer fridges’ compressors are much more efficient and run much faster, giving off a high-pitched hum, whine or pulse. But watch out for clicking during start up (especially if the lights dim), banging or knocking during start or stop, a ping or snap followed by the compressor stopping.

Cold control and defrost timer

A snapping or ticking sound as the refrigerator turns on and off

Plastic liner

Cracking or popping as the temperatures change

Drain pan

Running water during or after the defrost cycle

Water valve

Buzzing, clicking or running water as the icemaker fills or water is dispensed

Icemaker

Cracking of ice and cubes dropping into the bin

Condenser fan

Air being forced over the condenser is normal, but squealing from the motor is abnormal.

Condenser

You should hear a surging or gurgling sound from the flow of refrigerant when the compressor runs, but an improperly placed drain pan could cause rattling.

If the normal sounds bother you, consider a piece of rubber-backed carpet for underneath the fridge. You could even put sound absorbing materials inside the cabinet if the refrigerator sits in an enclosure.

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Posted in Appliance Design, customer service, Energy Efficiency, FAQ, Refrigerator | Comments Off

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